Description
- Functional PP material for everyday-use parts: Designed for FDM parts exposed to liquids, oils, or cleaning agents needing daily bending, snap-fit use, or light impact.
- Chemical resistance for practical applications: Suitable for container accessories, lab fixtures, cleaning-related parts, and other non-food-contact uses.
- Up to 582.5% elongation: Gives parts greater flexibility under tension, ideal for clips, hinges, fasteners, and prototypes needing room to deform.
- High toughness and impact resistance: 12.1 MPa tensile strength with high elongation helps parts withstand daily bending, snap-fit use, and light impact.
How to 3D Print Polypropylene filament?
Imagine 3D Printing Polypropylene is similar to 3D Printing Nylon & TPU.
Strongly recommend a closed frame 3d printer as a minimum, & 3d printers with Active chamber heating are highly recommended for this material.
It shrinks on cooling, & doesn’t like sticking well to common build surfaces.
We recommend sticking some PP packaging tape down (cello tape etc) on your bed first (several layers thick).
Then use some glue on it (very little glue) & 3d print the first layer very slow, & very thick.
Don’t use any Cooling fans what so ever.
Assuming a standard 0.4mm nozzle with 0.2mm layers:
Start with Extruder temp 240C
Bed 90C prep with clear PP packaging & glue as above.
Highly recommend using active heated chamber if you have it, & set it to around 50C.
PP’s oozing & retraction properties can be handled similar to 3d printing TPU & TPE.
Retract correctly, & minimal, else you will have under-extrusion on the starts of perimeters & poor water-tightness.
3d Printing PP is temperature sensitive, get your head too hot & it will elongate rapidly in the throat & block.
If its too cold, it will under-extrude & de-laminate.
Lower density parts & slow print speeds are usually a good start to decent polypropylene 3d prints.
Very thin part walls standing up are not the easiest, & neither are massive overhangs.
Use supports under 35 deg arcs, otherwise parts will warp.
It is important that you not remove the build off the bed straight away as you want the PolyPropylene part to cool down slowly else it will look perfect while printing, but then shrink & warp the part.
Active Chamber Control is thus very useful in 3d printing polyporpylene.
Turn off the build plate but keep the heater going at 50C for this to work best for you.
